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FALL / WINTER
2009-2010
FLEAS FLEAS FLEAS
We have just experienced
the wettest summer and
fall in 20 years
for Bedford County.
Fleas are a major issue
this year. We do
offering a special
herbal deflea product
along with a more
traditional flea shampoo
to help with flea and
tick problems. We do
recommend the spot on
products to help control
fleas, such as Frontline
or Advantage. Many have
complained that
Frontline is just not
working as well for them
this summer as it has in
the past. Please be
advised that if you have
been using Frontline for
a few years, you should
try another product,
such as Advantage or
Advantix. Rotating flea
products may be the
answer.
What you need to know
about Fleas
The mouthparts of adult
fleas are adapted for
puncturing animal skin
and sucking blood. Both
male and female fleas
suck blood. Fleas
normally prefer the
blood of pets over that
of humans, so it is not
unusual for people to
coexist with their pet
and its flea population
under normal conditions
and be bitten only
occasionally. However,
when the preferred host
is removed from the
environment, such as
during vacation, a
population of hungry
adult fleas will
accumulate. Hungry fleas
lose their preference
for pet blood and will
attack almost any
warm-blooded animal that
comes near.
Cats and dogs scratch
and bite themselves
constantly when heavily
infested. As a result,
their skin is irritated
and their coats become
soiled and roughened.
The initial irritation,
itching, and rash are
caused by salivary
secretions that the flea
injects during feeding.
There are four stages
in the life cycle of
fleas: egg, larva, pupa
and adult.
Under normal conditions,
the entire life cycle of
cat fleas may be
completed in as little
as 20 to 35 days .
The cycle is influenced
by temperature and
moisture conditions.
Ideal conditions are 85
degrees Fahrenheit and
85 percent relative
humidity. Under less
favorable conditions,
development takes longer
and may require several
months or even a year.
Sustained temperatures
below 55 degrees
Fahrenheit inhibit
development. Flea
reproduction takes place
indoors year-round, but
outdoor reproduction is
limited to warm-weather
months.
Eggs
Flea eggs are smooth,
oval, whitish and about
1/50 inch long. The
fertilized adult female
flea lays 2 to 14 eggs
after each blood meal
and up to 800 eggs
during her lifetime.
They are usually
deposited onto the skin
or hair of the host pet.
These eggs drop off
during a pet's normal
activities onto bedding,
carpet, rugs, mats, etc.
The greatest
concentration of eggs is
usually where the pet
spends the greatest
amount of time.
Larva
Flea eggs hatch into
larvae in 2 to 14 days,
depending on
environmental
conditions. Newly
hatched larvae are about
1/16 inch long and will
grow to a length of 1/4
inch. They grow by
molting, or periodically
shedding their skin.
They pass through three
molts and are fully
developed in 8 to 24
days. Larval growth can
be prolonged to more
than six months under
adverse conditions.
Flea larvae live in
floor cracks, rugs,
carpets and animal
bedding. They are
legless but move with
the aid of bristles on
their body. Larvae
prefer dark, moist
environments where they
feed on a wide variety
of organic debris. Food
items include dry feces
from adult fleas, pet
feces, and particles of
pet food.
Pupa
Before entering the
inactive pupal stage, a
fully grown flea larva
spins a silk cocoon. It
incorporates debris
particles into the
cocoon as it is spun.
The debris helps
camouflage the cocoon
within its surroundings.
The larva pupates inside
the cocoon, gradually
darkening to a brownish
color. It remains in the
pupal state 5 to 7 days,
but this stage may last
for up to a year in
unfavorable conditions.
Adult
Adult fleas are small,
wingless insects
approximately 1/12 to
1/8 inch long. They are
dark reddish-brown to
black. The last pair of
legs is modified for
jumping and an adult
flea can jump up to 8
inches vertically and 16
inches horizontally.
Their bodies are thin
(laterally compressed)
and covered with stout,
backwardly directed
spines, which allow
fleas to move forward
through the hair or
feathers of the host
while also helping them
to resist being pulled
out during grooming.
Adult fleas remain in
the cocoon until a
suitable host is
detected. Depending on
environmental
conditions, an adult
flea can remain in the
cocoon for up to five
months waiting for a
host. From inside the
cocoon, adult fleas
recognize the presence
of a potential host by
sensing body heat, odor,
air movement or
vibration of floors and
surroundings. Once
suitable stimuli are
detected, the adult flea
exits the cocoon and
seeks out the host. This
behavior is one reason
flea infestations are
often discovered by
people returning home
after vacation or moving
into a new home or
apartment where hungry
adult fleas have been
waiting for an extended
period of time inside a
cocoon without access to
available hosts.
Various tapeworms are
transmitted by the cat (Ctenocephalides
felis) and dog (Ctenocephalides
canis) flea. Many cats
and dogs are infected
with the tapeworm
Dipylidium caninum. This
tapeworm is transmitted
when your pet ingests an
adult flea infected with
the larval tapeworm.
Once inside the pet, the
adult tapeworm develops
and begins to produce
eggs, which are shed in
the pet's feces. Young
children are infected
when they are in close
contact with pets and
inadvertently swallow an
infected adult flea.
Control
Flea control is a
complicated problem.
This is because there
are multiple stages in
the flea life cycle, and
these stages are found
on and off the pet both
inside and outside the
home. Flea control
strategies have to
consider all of the
growth stages and where
they are located.
Treating for only one or
two stages or locations
almost always leads to
reinfestation, because
any growth stage that is
not eliminated will
eventually find hosts
and become
redistributed. Despite
these challenges, you
can solve flea problems
by first directing
control strategies at
flea stages on infested
pets, and then focusing
on the places these pets
spend their time.
Indoors
Because flea development
occurs off of the host,
attention must also be
given to the areas in
which pets are active.
Remember that flea eggs
fall off of the hosts as
they move around their
environment, and these
eggs hatch into larvae
that eventually develop
into new adult fleas
that reinfest your pet.
Vigorously vacuum the
entire house--especially
areas visited frequently
by pets. Although
vacuuming will not
remove all fleas or all
life stages, you should
vacuum regularly
(weekly) and thoroughly
to remove as many fleas
as possible. Areas that
require special
attention include pet
resting areas, carpets
(particularly around
legs of furniture that
pets rub against),
cracks and crevices
along baseboards,
upholstered furniture
(if the pets are allowed
on such furniture), and
under beds if the pets
are allowed on the beds.
As soon as vacuuming is
completed, remove the
vacuum bag and put it in
a sealed plastic bag and
place in the trash. If
the vacuum bag is not
removed, it can become a
source of reinfestation
inside the home.
If a flea infestation is
minor, frequent and
thorough vacuuming might
solve the problem.
However, heavy
infestations usually
require an accompanying
application of an
insecticide spray to
carpeting, cracks and
crevices, or other areas
where fleas are present.
Several over-the-counter
insecticides with
varying effectiveness
can be purchased for
this purpose. Products
containing pyrethrins or
synergized pyrethroids
(active ingredients
usually have the suffix
— thrin) are the most
common. Good results
have been achieved using
these products along
with a product
containing an insect
growth regulator (active
ingredients are
methoprene or fenoxycarb).
These products are
odorless and nonstaining.
When using spray
treatments, it is
usually necessary to
make a second
application 10 to 14
days following the
first. This is necessary
because eggs and pupae
are more resistant and
may not have been
affected by the initial
treatment. By the second
application, eggs and
pupae will have
developed into larvae
and adults, which are
more susceptible to
spray treatments.
A pest management
company can apply spray
treatments if you do not
want to do it yourself.
If you choose to hire a
pest management
professional, you should
obtain estimates from
two or three companies
and understand exactly
what services you will
receive. Normally, they
will recommend a
thorough cleaning of
carpets, bedding areas,
etc. before they treat
these areas with a spray
treatment. They will not
treat animals, so you
will still be
responsible for the
fleas on your pets.
Total release aerosols
(bombs) containing
pyrethrins or
pyrethroids are
available for killing
adult fleas. Although
effective on adults,
this type of application
does not affect the
other life stages, and
reinfestation is likely
unless treatment
incorporates other
strategies.
Warning on the use of
chemicals
Apply chemicals only
where needed or
justified. Before using
any chemical, please
read the label carefully
for directions on
application procedures,
appropriate rate, first
aid, storage and
disposal. Make sure that
the chemical is properly
registered for use on
the intended pest and
follow all other label
directions. Keep
insecticides in original
containers, complete
with labels, and keep
them out of the reach of
children and pets. Do
not allow children or
pets near treated areas
before these areas dry.
Carefully and properly
dispose of unused
portions of diluted
sprays and empty
insecticide containers.
Written by Richard M.
Houseman
Department of Entomology
University of Missouri
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